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Alpinism
Punta Dufour
The second highest peak of the Alps: 4,634 meters
With its 4,634 meters of altitude, Punta Dufour is the second highest peak of the Alps and all of Europe.
Activity
Alpinism
Period
from June to September
Difficulty
AD
Duration
two or three days
Departure
Alagna Valsesia (1,191 meters)
Arrival
Punta Dufour (4,634 meters)
Elevation Gain
1,374 meters
Until 1863 its name was Höchste Spitze, meaning "the highest peak", when the Swiss federal council decided to change the name to Punta Dufour, in honor of Guillaume-Henri Dufour, a general and cartographer of the Swiss army, under whose direction a series of military topographic surveys were conducted, including those regarding the Monte Rosa massif. First reached in 1855, it is now a sought-after destination but reserved for those with some previous experience in high mountain climbing, a decent command of crampon use, and good training.
The normal route from the Italian side starts at Capanna Margherita, the highest refuge in Europe at 4,554 meters of altitude, which can be reached from Alagna Valsesia by taking the lifts to Punta Indren (3,275 meters) and then directly with an approach of about 5 hours, or by breaking the ascent by staying overnight at Rifugio Gnifetti. The climb to the summit is long and delicate: you descend to Colle Gnifetti (4,452 m), then ascend to Punta Zumstein (4,563 m) and descend again to Grenzsattel (4,453 m) before the actual climb to Punta Dufour via the southeast ridge of rocks and snow. An ascent of about 3-4 hours classified AD+ (quite difficult) reserved for those who already have experience with the accompaniment of a certified UIAGM guide.
Mountain Guides
Alagna Valsesia
Capanna Margherita
The highest refuge in Europe: 4,554 meters
two days with overnight stay in the hut
Alagna Valsesia
Glacier Progression
The thrill of the glacier with crampons, rope, and ice axe.
one day
Alagna Valsesia
Concatenation of the Four Thousand
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two or three days
Alagna Valsesia
Cresta del Soldato
A beautiful and panoramic ridge to get acquainted with high mountain
4-5h
Alagna Valsesia
Cresta Signal
A more technical alternative to Punta Gnifetti and Capanna Margherita
Safety in the Mountains
Living and experiencing the mountains requires caution, preparation, and experience. No activity, even the easiest one, should be taken for granted or improvised.
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