Glacier Progression: alpine climbing with crampons and ice axe

Alpinism

Glacier Progression

The thrill of the glacier with crampons, rope, and ice axe.

Glacier progression is an activity that is a true rite of passage for those who choose to dedicate themselves to high-altitude mountain climbing.

Activity

Alpinism

Period

from June to September

Difficulty

Duration

one day

Departure

Alagna Valsesia (1,191 meters)

Arrival

Punta Vittoria (3,454 meters) or Capanna Gnifetti (3,647 meters)

Elevation gain

250 / 415 meters

Although it is a relatively simple activity that can be tackled without previous climbing experience, despite its inviting appearance, the glacier is in fact a treacherous terrain whose main danger is falling into a crevasse, a risk that is more likely in the presence of a snow cover. For this reason, it is necessary to approach it always in a rope team, relying on the experience of a certified UIAGM guide, and properly equipped with crampons, harness, rope, ice axe, and climbing helmet. Don't forget high-protection sunscreen and sunglasses.

The entrance to a glacier experience is located at the upper station of the cable car that takes you from Alagna Valsesia (1,191 meters) to the 3,275 meters of Punta Indren, where you can already feel the thinner air. From there, you can choose between two classic glacier progressions. The first ascends the Bors glacier, leading in about an hour and a half of walking to Punta Vittoria (3,454 meters), a true balcony from which you can enjoy a memorable view of the south face of Monte Rosa. The second alternative crosses the Indren glacier and then the Lys glacier, with an intermediate stop at Rifugio Mantova (3,498 meters) before reaching Capanna Gnifetti (3,647 meters) in about two hours of walking. Return on the same route during the day.

Alagna Valsesia

Capanna Margherita

The highest refuge in Europe: 4,554 meters

two days with overnight stay in the hut

go to experience

Alagna Valsesia

Punta Dufour

The second highest peak of the Alps: 4,634 meters

two or three days

go to experience

Alagna Valsesia

Concatenation of the Four Thousand

Three days at high altitude to reach six peaks over 4,000 meters

two or three days

go to experience

Alagna Valsesia

Cresta del Soldato

A beautiful and panoramic ridge to get acquainted with high mountain

4-5h

go to experience

Alagna Valsesia

Cresta Signal

A more technical alternative to Punta Gnifetti and Capanna Margherita

go to experience

discover all the experiences

Safety in the Mountains

Living and experiencing the mountains requires caution, preparation, and experience. No activity, even the easiest, should be taken for granted or improvised.

discover

CAV

★★★★★

Casa Smitt

Alagna Valsesia

In the heart of Alagna, less than a 5-minute walk from the Monterosaski lifts, Casa Smitt is surrounded by a large garden and offers a beautiful view of th...